Chandigarh - Leh- Chandigarh
Riding the Himalayas
Day 1 - 24th Aug2002
It was 6:30am we are at Nalagarh, 50kmts from Chandigarh, having tea. It is not cold, but one feels comfortable in jackets. Riding to the the Highest Motorable Road in the World, KhardungLa is 48kmts form Leh.
Plan was something like, Day one ride Chandigarh to Manali covering 320kmts, thought we will take a shortcut country road to Sunder Nagar and then join the Manali Highway. That was not a great idea thought, road were very narrow, hilly and at some places roads were nonexistent. Himachal Tourism hotel was booked in Manali. Second Day Plan was to ride from Manali to Sarchu, Himachal J&K border. At Sarchu we were planning to pitch tents. This leg we had to cover 240kmts. Day three planed was Sarchu - Leh 260kmts.
Myself, Bijesh and Pradeep were riding on two motorcycles a Yamaha RXZ and a Suzuki Shogun. I was on my Shogun riding and Pradeep was pillion, Bijesh riding alone. We halted at Sunder Nagar to have some breakfast, we had some bread and eggs. and then Left to Manali. We reached Manali by 5:30pm. The weather was just fine no rains, pretty sunny but not warm either. We had booked rooms in the Himachal Tourish hotel in advance, Hotel Beas. I was feeling feverish, because of a sore throat. Popped some Nimislude and and slept off.
Day Two 25thAug
Woke up at around 5:30am, I was feeling much better and was ready to ride. From Manali the real trip starts. I saw a slack in in my chain, so I adjusted my chain and checked to RXZ's chain hat was also picking up some slack. I readjusted the air mixture of my carburettor to cope with the altitude lack of oxygen. The Weather is very unpredictable here, We were hoping that we wont meet the rain gods on the way. thought we had full protection, all the luggage was packed in waterproof material and had good rain coats and Gum Boots. But still it is a pain riding the winding roads wet in freezing temperatures. From Manali we see a board BRO roads begins here, and the Climb begins to Rothang La. The first mountain pass that you will come across. It is 51kmts from Manali. As the ascend started Bijesh's RXZ started giving problems because of lack of atmospheric oxygen, It started sputtring badly and was not at all climbing. We unpacked the luggages took of the tools and I started adjusting the Carburettor, tried all the permutations and combinations but still it was sputtring, but much better that before.
We did not have a spare Smaller Jet, So I had no idea what to do. So we started from there to Rothang, Because of the Bike we were late by 2 hrs than schedule. (But motorcycle trips are about breakdowns, the what if this happens, what if you pick up a flat) riding ain't fun on a BMW with two trucks as backup)Had Aloo Paranthas for breakfast from a Dhaba at Rothang, Saw a Army convey to Leh, met a guy from Trivandrum too. He came running when he saw the KL registration on my motorcycle. We talked to him for some time and then we left to Keylong. Keylong is the only next town that you will see until you reach Leh, We were hoping to find a mechanic to fix the carb. The next is you see a board at Tandi, Next filling station is 360kmts from here! We topped up our pertol tanks and also the spare cans of 6lts each that we were carrying. We reached Keylong the mechanic did not have spare small jet, but he had an idea to put some copper wire in the jet so that I will lean the mixture. Viola It worked, We were happy and were riding again from there.
I was really tired by that time. We had lunch from Keylong, and left for Sarchu, which was again 150kmts. rode for couple of hours the Road is really not there in this section after Darcha,
We started from Darcha and the weather was changing it was getting chilly and dark, We had no other option other than to ride to sarchu so that we can find some accommodation. Switched on my 65 watts halogen and started to ride very slowly, the roads were climbing and there is no tar on the road just broken rocks. I was just cautious that I don't get a puncture by the sharp rocks. Stopped at around 8:00pm at Kathmandu dhaba that is 26kmts from Sarchu. As soon as I stopped my Bike I was feeling dizzy, this was because of the low air pressure and lack of Oxygen. This is the same place where Sachin Rao(BS Motoring, his article on the Leh ride did help us a lot on this trip) stayed. We talked to them about Sachin and all of them knew him very well and they became so friendly that even refused to take the bill for our tea and snacks. So we offered them the Sweets that we purchased from Chandigarh, It was really a nice feeling to meet such friendly people.They Advised us not to proceed since the Road is blocked because of a glacier melt and broke on the road, It is dangerous to go at night, and offered us a night's stay. We were in a mood that we reach Sarchu and left. That was the biggest mistake we did, After half way there was water on the Road and on close examination we found it was not mud rather ice. We got scared stopped the bike and found that the road ahead is slushy till the knee with ice, water and mud. I was almost panting due to lack of oxygen, same was with Pradeep and Bijesh. We made up our mind to start to sarchu and started to move the bike slowly and we took 2 hrs to cover 18kmts. We reached Sarchu by 10:30pm, exhausted.
My legs were shivering because the effort made to control the motor through the mud. just woke up the tent guys had Rajma Roti and just dozed off without even taking off my jacket and riding kit.Day 3
Woke up at around 6:00am, The last night's ride was real tiring. We were feeling sort of ok and made up mind to ride, ate breakfast, packed luggage and left Sarchu hoping to make it to Leh, Leh is another 260kmts from sarchu. We entered the Himalayan Planes, the scenic beauty of this place is just great. Saw the board Gatta Loops starts here. Now we were again climbing steeply to TanglangLa (The second highest mountain pass in the World) the climb was really tough. I could feel the lack of oxygen due to heavy panting. I was like gasping for some breath. Pradeep and Bijesh were riding ahead. We were descending again the Gatta Loops, and saw Bijesh and Pradeep stopped, I too parked the motorcycle, Bijesh was not feeling well he started vomiting. I was thinking hope it does not get worse and we make it to Leh. We exhausted water, so filed out bottles from a nearby stream, drank lots of water popped up a Diamox, and started. After an hour again vomiting got worse for Bijesh and he was entering unconsciousness. We just made it to Pang. It is 85kmts from sarchu. Pang has some tent camps! We went in a tent ordered tea and I just fell on the bed. Suddenly my head was paining like hell. Felt someone was pulling my hair. The aunty in the tent made us salt tea, and said you will feel better. I was lying down the bed and could see Bijesh vomiting again, It was getting worse. He even vomited the diamox!. Even Pradeep was sort of unconscious and was laying down.
It was evening now, and said to Pradeep, We will stay here tonight and proceed tomorrow. Karma a small kid in the tent suggested that there is Army camp near by, we will go and see the Doc, He will give you Dispirin. Myself, Pradeep and Karma proceeded to the Doc. He was really nice, Checked out oxygen level in the Blood. Pradeep's level was ok, mine was bit low. He said not to worry and gave us medicines. We took medicines for Bijesh too. Woke up Bijesh and gave him medicines, He vomited that too. That was bad sign, anyway we forced him to eat something and made him drink lots of water, and dozed off hoping it will be better tomorrow. This place is real cold. We were covered in two blankets and a Razzai, but still Bijesh was shivering. The Aunty was so generous that she came and covered him with a another Razzai.Day 4
I woke up at 6:00am, That was a good sign I thought. The headache was gone but there still was some dizzyness. I had some tea. There is no toilets in Pang, There is river behind said Karma. It was chilly in the morning with a slight drizzle. I took some hot water in a bottle and went to the River Bank. Pradeep and Bijesh woke up and was havnig tea by the time I came back. They were feeling much better. We took breakfast and tea. Got things packed by 10:00am and started to Leh. I was riding alone and Pradeep was riding the RXZ. I stopped on the way to take some snaps. Had a smoke and then again rode, We covered 45kmts and reached Upshi. Had some tea, took more snaps and left to Leh. From here we enter the Himalayan Planes, just beautiful. Pradeep was riding ahead but I coud see him at a distance. I saw Bijesh waving both his hands like he found something. We saw the Welcome to Leh board!! Viola We made it. We reached Leh by 4:00pm took the first Hotel, unpacked and I was thinking of a hot water bath (after 4 days). Took a hot water bath and we all rested for some time. Bijesh had to see a Doctor to get some medication, his condition was not very good, Nausia and headache was still there, We stood for 2 hrs in the line to see the Doc. He gave prescription took medicines and Bijesh dozed off. Myself and Pradeep went out to have Dinner. We planned what to see around Leh the next day, and slept off....
Day5 : Next day myself and Pradeep set out to explore Leh while Bijesh decided to take a day off at Leh in the hotel and relax. We set out to explore Leh do some shopping and return back by evening to the hotel.
Day6: We rode to Khardung La
Day 7, 8, 9 11:Was spend in a relaxing ride back to Chandigarh. Well this was one of the most beautiful ride that I cherish in my riding history!
Even today when myself and Bijesh get together we somehow end up talking about this ride and all the fun we had.
Pic: Bijesh, Pradeep and Myself
Rest of the picture gallery
